Are our Clutches balanced? Yes! All of our clutches are balanced and ready to fit straight out of the box
Will our Clutches make the pedal stiffer or harder to press?
No! Our clutches don’t need excessively strong clutch cover diaphragm springs. We improve our friction material first. Doubling up or using excessively strong diaphragm springs only adds more strain on the other clutch components such as slave/master cylinder, the clutch release bearing and clutch fork.
Will I have to bed or break in my new Clutch?
Yes. For organic plates we recommend breaking in the clutch for 300-500 miles with mild use. For Kevlar Clutches we recommend 800 miles bedding in, using as many gear changes as possible and not revving the engine to full torque- Kevlar material does not reach its full potential properties until it is “roughened up” thus slipping can occur if used in anger before 800 miles, if this occurs you must reduce the throttle and continue to drive. Bedding in the clutch helps to lap in the surfaces prior to normal driving or racing. Do not overheat the clutch during the break in period, as this can result in friction surfaces fusing together, hot spots, and friction surface glazing.
Will I have to make any modifications when fitting my new Clutch?
All of our clutch assemblies are designed to be a direct bolt in replacement for the stock clutch assembly. Pedal height adjustments are sometimes necessary depending on application. If adjustments for a specific application are required, a supplemental technical bulletin will be provided.
Is it necessary to change the crank spigot/pilot bush?
Yes, if your vehicle is equipped with a pilot bearing or bushing, it is recommended to replace and properly lube the pilot bearing/bushing when changing the clutch. We can supply you with a new bearing or bushing.
Do I need to use dowel pins when fitting my new Clutch?
Yes! The alignment dowel pins properly locate the pressure plate to the flywheel. Without these pins, severe vibration and engine damage can result. The alignment dowel pins should always be replaced if they are damaged, broken off, or missing from the flywheel.
What would cause poor gear changes after fitting a new clutch?
Improper clutch release caused by faulty linkage and/or improper adjustment, pilot bearing damage, insufficient lubrication of release mechanism or input shaft splines. It takes a remarkably small amount of drag on the input shaft to make life difficult for transmission synchros.
What would cause the clutch not to disengage?
Inadequate clutch release can be caused by many problems. Possible causes may be as follows: 1) Clutch linkage not properly adjusted or reset. 2) Flywheel not resurfaced before new clutch installed. 3) Flywheel surfaced improperly, such as incorrect flywheel step. 4) Flywheel machined too thin or not manufactured to stock (O-E-M) specifications. 5) Lack of lubrication on linkage or release bearing collar. 6) Linkage worn or damaged. 7) Hydraulics defective, leaking or air in the system. Just one bubble is enough! 8) Cable stretched or damaged. 9) Pilot bushing binding due to improper bellhousing alignment, bellhousing damaged or loose. 10) Clutch disc installed improperly. 11) Clutch disc hub rubbing against flywheel bolts. 12) Clutch disc binding on input shaft or damaged splines. 13) Input shaft bent causing clutch disc runout. 14) Pressure plate assembly and/or clutch disc bent or damaged. 15) Clutch disc is too thick or has excessive marcel (too much cushion between the friction linings). 16) Pressure plate has defective or damaged torque drive straps. 17) Damaged, worn, or improperly installed pilot bushing/bearing. 18) Oil or grease contamination on clutch facings. 19) Damaged or worn release bearing collar.
What would cause juddering?
Judder is when the car shudders (chatters) as the clutch is being engaged. Possible cause may be as follows: 1) Flywheel has excessive run-out. 2) Flywheel was not resurfaced or improperly resurfaced before the new clutch was installed. 3) Damaged or excessively worn CV joints. 4) Bad U-Joints in drive shaft or U-Joints misaligned. 5) Excessive backlash in differential. 6) Excessive driveline angle. 7) Bad leaf springs, bushings or mounts. 8) The use of an aggressive clutch disc designed for racing. 9) Defective pressure plate and/or disc. 10) Disc has inadequate marcel (not enough cushion between the friction linings). 11) Oil or grease contamination on clutch facings. 12) Worn or damaged clutch linkage. 13) Bent pressure plate assembly and/or disc. 14) Improperly tuned engine. 15) Worn or damaged engine mounts or transmission mounts.