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Our advice when changing the clutch on a Defender TDCI (2.4/2.2L)

Changing the clutch on a TDCI Defender:

The 2.4L and 2.2L TD4/ TDCI Puma is in our opinion one of the easiest models of Defender to change the clutch on, we have written this info page to help everyone out if they are planning on changing their clutch!

What parts should I change on my TD4 Defender?:                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        One of the most common questions we get asked about the TDCI is ‘Do I need a new flywheel?’ – The short answer is no, when Land Rover decided to install the 2.4L Ford TDCI in 2006/2007 Ford were having great issues with their dual mass flywheels, Land Rover decided to not run the risk and consequently every TDCI that left the factory was fitted with a solid mass flywheel (SMF.) Even Ford got rid of the dual mass flywheel on their 2.2L engines! The only reason we offer a flywheel for the TDCI is if the original AP clutch has exploded, when this happens and the terrible tambourine rattly’ clutch plate looses a spring, it falls out and can damage the flywheel. Of course the other reason is if the flywheel has seen excess slipping of the clutch, but you should be able to know the answer to these 2 factors before taking the gearbox out.

On the TDCI, it runs a Ford Concentric slave cylinder (essentially a release bearing and slave cylinder in 1 unit) Great idea… until they fail and you have to take the gearbox out to replace it- GRRR! Here at LOF, we upgrade everyone to the 2.2 Design of slave cylinder, it is a better design than the 2.4L version. Originally we supplied the genuine Ford/ FTE brand, but we soon found a failing with this part, so we have made our own now. (without boring you the design of the hydraulic piston gave way to cracking of the nylon causing premature failure. Worth mentioning, if you have a 2.4 Tdci, you will need a new bleed pipe, part number LR068981, we suggest changing this every time you do a clutch swap anyway as its held in place with an R clip and cannot be removed without taking the gearbox out again. We supply this part in our Bundle kits and also on its own.

Things we suggest changing (mostly included in our bundle deals for ease)

  1. The Rear main oil seal/ Crank seal. LR020610, unless your engine is on low miles, it makes sense to do this- please note fitting is crucial to success, follow the Ford workshop manual not LR.
  2. The concentric save cylinder- This is included in all of our kits anyway, but it needs changing every time – **Do not get this out of the box and compress by hand, you will damage the seal**
  3. Bleed pipe LR068981/82- We suggest changing these every time, as they are in the engine bay and the Plastic can go brittle over time.
  4. Spigot bearing/ Pilot bearing- these are pre-loaded with grease, and after 80-100k miles can dry up and self destruct (one of the reasons some TDCI can have gear selection issues)
  5. The master cyinder, STC500100- this needs changing when doing a TDCI clutch, as you will find the old fluid is mostly black sludge from degraded seals, if you do not change this, the black gunk will work its way down to the new slave cylinder and could cause premature failure! (the master cylinder is the only part not included in the TDCI bundle)
  6. Not something to change, but something to have in the tool box- a clutch alignment tool is critical, as mentioned below, if the clutch plate is not aligned with the crank/ spigot bearing, you can do some real damage to the clutch plate when re-installing the gearbox, hence its worth having a proper alignment tool and not doing it by eye!

The Process: 

1.You should start from inside the cab, removing the rubber gearstick gaiter and sliding the main gearstick off by splaying the 2 plastic retaining clips. Next you will need to take a male Torx bit, and undo the 8 retaining bolts that hold the lower gearstick + High low selector stick in place, stick the 8x bolts in the cubby box to keep them safe! You can then remove the lower half of the gearstick and the high low selector, that is all from inside!

2. Next You will need to pop the bonnet, and undo the 4 bolts holding the down pipe to the exhaust manifold (2.4) or the 13mm Exhaust clamp on the 2.2 TDCI. You can at this point also take the bonnet off if desired to let more light into the engine bay.

3. The next job is to remove the prop shafts using a 9/16″ socket and spanner (prop shaft tools are great and well worth the peanuts they cost!) Once the prop shafts are removed, you will want to take a large philips screw driver and remove the hand brake drum retaining screw, followed by removing the handbrake drum itself (make sure handbrake lever is off else you will never get it off!). Next you will want to remove the centre/ mid-box exhaust section, which in turn will allow you to remove the front section (if you have anti roll bars you may need to drop these down too to slide the CAT/ DPF past)

4. Next you will want to disconnect all electronic wiring to the gearbox, this includes: High low sensor, Diff lock sensor, large M10 earth strap, Reverse switch sensor, speedo drive wiring and crank sensor wire.

5. Now you can remove the gearbox mounting bolts either side of the chassis, making sure the gearbox/ transfer box is supported. You can of course separate the LT230 transfer box from the MT82 gearbox if working alone or servicing the MT82 output shaft. The LT230 ways in the region of 40-50KG so is just about manageable by 1 person. The same applies to the gearbox.

6. Once the gearbox mounts are removed, you can then begin removing the ring of 13mm bell housing bolts holding the gearbox to the engine. You may want to leave the lower 6 o’clock position ones until last. You can reach the higher 12 o’clock position ones using a couple of 12″ extensions and a ratchet.

7. Once all bolts are removed, you can begin to wiggle the gearbox backwards and separate the pair- be careful as the gearbox is dowelled to the engine, it may be stiff and then drop suddenly!

8. Once the gearbox is down on the ground, it is straight forward to change the clutch in situ,

9. Re-fitment is the reverse of the above, take Extra care not to damage the clutch plate or spigot bearing when installing the gearbox (Keep it supported at all times, and keep it in-line with the axis of the crank, failure to do so may end up in damage to the clutch plate (we see this a lot on driveway fitting jobs) or damage to the roller bearing spigot!

If you need any more help or info feel free to get in touch! Sales@LOFclutches.com, we can usually reply to emails faster than an answer on the phone!

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