Our advice on Changing the clutch on a 200tdi or 300tdi

Our advice on Changing the clutch on a 200tdi or 300tdi

The 200tdi and 300tdi both in the Discovery 1, Defender 90/110/130 and the Range Rover classic, all run the same 9.5″ Diameter clutch, the same kit is used in the 2.5NA, 2.5TD and the 2.5 Petrol engine.

Choosing the right clutch: If you are abusing the truck off road, hauling heavy loads daily, have a VNT/ hybrid turbo fitted, are competing in winch challenge/ safari/ trialing, you will need the 2.8TGV POWERspec kit. If your truck is a daily driver, daily work horse or weekend toy, you should look to either the ROADspec TDI or POWERspec TDI kits!

Things worth changing while fitting a new TDI clutch:                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   1. The clutch fork: as many will know, the 4 cylinder Land Rover engines use a ‘pressed’ steel type fork made from maybe 2mm thick mild steel, This fork pivots directly on a central pivot which is also made of steel, over time the fork wears and the clutch fork pivot punches through the fork! Symptoms of this will usually be a rock hard clutch pedal, where the slave has extended to its maximum, or an over extended slave which leaks fluid into the bell housing and out of the breather hole onto the ground! The fork, Part number FTC2957, can be upgraded to FTC2957HD which has a steel ‘strap’ or plate welded over the front of the fork, in essence giving it more material before it punches through. Another option is the Xcess 4×4 Fork which is domex steel welded over the entire front face, giving extra strength! Either way its worth changing, take your time to use some of the grease we supply in the kit to lube up the pivot ball, slipper pads and Pushrod seat/land.

2. The Rear main oil seal/ crank seal: The 200tdi runs a circular seal part number ERR2532, here at LOF we sell the genuine OEM ones that are green in colour, these can be very tricky to get right, be careful to follow the workshop manual, and if possible find the original LR workshop tool to drift the new seal into place. On the 300tdi, the crank seal part number LUF100430, is also worth changing. Again this seal can be tricky to get right, it uses a series of small M5/M6 bolts, and a gasket. Be careful to follow the workshop manual, also use a torch to run round the edge of the seal once fitted to make sure it has not been inverted, caught or damaged.

Do you need to change the flywheel on the 200tdi/300tdi: In short, no you will not necessarily, they are a solid flywheel from standard on the 4 cylinder LR engines, they are resistant to warping usually, but it is worth running a straight edge or steel rule over the face to make sure its flat. In addition, make sure the 3 dowels are not damaged, and the face of the flywheel is not too badly scorn or uneven. If needed and you have the facilities, you can machine the flywheel, and replace the dowels for new ones.

Things to be careful of when fitting a TDI clutch kit:

  • Be careful to use a clutch alignment tool, making sure the clutch plate spline is directly inline with the axis of the crank and spigot bush. If you are not careful and these are milaligned, the gearbox will be a struggle to            re-install, sometimes it may also cause damage to the clutch plate. Make sure the gearbox is supported at all times when re-installing, also make sure the input spline of the gearbox is not ‘hung’ off of the clutch plate, this can crack the back of the plate and cause no drive.
  • Read the workshop manual when fitting a new crank seal!
  • Clutch cover bolts- as standard these were M8x20 from the factory, and used spring washers. We found some flywheels were not threaded all the way and ended up bottoming out before the clutch cover was tight to the flywheel. Therefore we supply our TDI kits with 6 bolts M8x16, 16mm long, this avoids this problem. You do not need to use spring washers on our bolts/clutches, if you wish you can add some loctite, but it is not essential. just torque them up to 28Nm and all will be well.
  • If you have an early 90/110 which originally had a 2.5NA engine fitted, or a “Stump” R380, you should be careful to make sure the release bearing supplied (FTC5200) is the same as the one you remove in terms of length. Some of the early 2.5Na vehicles ran a stumpy release bearing part number UTJ100210 which is 10mm shorter in length. If you fit the later more common FTC5200 bearing by accident, it may cause the clutch to slip!



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