Last year we jumped at the opportunity to be part of something great:
We were contacted by a company in Essex, Tecniq, to help them in building a 1 of 1 Defender 110″ Which was to be Auctioned off at the Bonhams Good Wood Revival Festival in 2022.
Is this the coolest commission built Defender in the World?
This Chinook Helicopter themed Defender was commissioned on behalf of the Royal Air Force and was sold at auction to raise money for the RAF Association fetching £125,000 at the @goodwoodrevival festival last year!
Here at LOF, we were lucky enough to be a part of this amazing project, In order for the 110” to look as similar to a Chinook as possible, we supplied a set of our #EXTREMEspec brakes with a twist, Left hand Calipers anodised red (Port) and Right hand calipers anodised Green (Starboard)
Such a cool iconic Defender to be a part of that is for sure! (As seen in The Times )
Here at LOF we like to challenge ourselves with a project build once in a while, building high powered Defenders like the DefStang and the Agri give us a good base platform to test our products and designs. Our blog about the DefStang caused such a stir and so much interest we decided it was only right we did one about our 110 DCPU installed with a 3.0D M57 engine from a BMW.
The Base truck was a low mileage Defender 110, sourced from our friends up at Engine 710 in Edinburgh, Painted factory colour Aintree Green, this thing was a beauty, albeit it had some battle scars from where it had been used on a country estate in the highlands. The 2.2 TDCI engine was ok, but a bit of a beige trouser driver engine and actually gave us some grief (DPF/ EGR valve issues)
As this truck was being used by one of the LOF team we decided to make it as reliable as possible and get rid of those modern gremlins as found on the 2.2 TDCI!
The Engine of choice was a 180BHP narrow block 6 cylinder diesel M57 engine, as used in the 3 series and 5 series BMW cars. We used this engine as it is commonly available, ‘pre LCI’ meaning the timing chain doesn’t snap at 100k miles religiously like on the post 2007 engines!
Assembly: in order to keep this project as short as possible, we used the original MT82 6 speed gearbox. We also re-used the Intercooler, Radiator and fuel tank lift pump.
First stop was removal of the old engine, we then had to weld in some new engine mounts. These we had supplied by 4×4 Fabrication in Cheshire, Dave lee the owner is also a keen M57 converter and has drawings for all the BMW engine swaps, he offers these mounts in thick mild steel, keeping the engine at the correct angle.
Once fabricated, the new M57 engine could be dropped in (also supplied by Dave @ 4×4 fabrication) These engines are cheap as chips, from memory we paid around £600 for this one, albeit as this conversion becomes more popular I am sure engine prices will rise somewhat!
In order to bolts the M57 engine to the MT82 ford gearbox, we used an adapter ring supplied by Syncro Gearboxes. This ring is a bolt on job and allows the correct spacing for the clutch and flywheel. We decided to run this car on a standard BMW Dual mass flywheel, twinned with a clutch kit we designed to give us strength but also to adapt to the 23 ford spline on the inout shaft of the MT82.
So far the above is less than a days work- as you can see these things are easy to do!
Next was the plumbing: using a series of pipes from the BMW road car and the original 2.2 TDCI engine, we were able to pipe up all the correct inlets for the water system, using 1 length of 3/4” pipe to span back to the original Puma Expansion tank in its original location. Its worth noting here- save every pipe clamp, hose joiner and fastener from the 2.2 TDCI install, if you re-use these your engine swap can really look like a factory fitted engine.
Once the water pipes were connected, we used a 200tdi Power steering pipe to connect the M57 power steering pump to the original land Rover steering box- this is literally an off the shelf part and makes it dead easy. use the engine-mounted power steering reservoir from the M57.
Air intake + intercooler: This was slightly more challenging than the water pipes, it required a series of 90 degree silicone hose bends and 1 reducer bend to get from the turbo to the intercooler, and back round to the inlet manifold. ( Although time consuming this is not really hard, it just requires patience checking nothing will rub or slide off under high boost.)
Defender 110 DCPU Enine swap at LOF clutches
ECU: Mount the BMW ECU in the same place as the Land Rover TDCI ECU, we drilled out 2 screws and used the bulkhead studs (M6) to hold the ECU. There is 1 block connector from the M57 engine to the ECU, so it really is plug and play. We then used a dash controller Canbus control (box of wizardry) from Martin Lewis @ Futuranet. Again this is a doddle, plug the LR block connector into the box, plug the short loom made by Futuranet between the BMW ECU and dash controller.
Aircon: Due to speed, we actually did not re-install the aircon on this one, although if you have an aircon engineer handy, its not too hard- use the BMW aircon pump and the Land Rover condenser/ radiator.
Fuel lines + Pump: The M57 runs a high pressure inline fuel pump, we bought a bosch branded one off ebay for circa £35, and installed it on two rubber coated large P clips on the passenger chassis rail just after the gearbox crossmember. Dead easy to do, simply use the TDCI fuel hoses upto this pump, connect the pump inline, and then use some braided fuel hose to run upto the injection pump on the M57 engine. (tidy the lines with P clips or similar!) PS the fuel pump will need an ignition live which can be brought through the passenger seat box grommet.
Drivetrain: We left the Defender 110 drivetrain alone, its fairly tough in standard form. The only modificatons we made were a LOF EXTREMEspec MT82 output shaft and also due to the new increase in power (240 BHP) we installed a set of our 16” EXTREMEspec front brakes!
The Results: Simply wow, I can see why the Ineos Grenadier chose this power plant, the M57 pulls from low RPM, it boosts low and as soon as the boost comes on it throws you back in your seat. We towed a 3.5 ton trailer to get an idea of its power and it simply glided through the gears effortlessly! The LOF team member who drove the car used to get 320-350 miles to a tank, once the M57 was installed, he was getting over 420 miles to a tank!!
I highly recommend this conversion, its cost effective too, should you sell your 2.2 TDCI for say circa £2000, doing the DIY route I think you could get this conversion done for a net £2000 cost! (without shiny extras!)
We were very lucky to have Marcus Williams @ MW machines guiding us through the process, Marcus has a world of knowledge when it comes to M57 engine conversions, and since doing this one with him, he has gone on to do various iterations including both the 8 speed and 10 speed BMW auto gearboxes!
If you are looking for an M57 conversion and wish to have it done by a company, we have some great friends and specialists in doing these listed below (in no particular order)
Here at LOF, we often get asked for help on what to order when changing the brakes on a Land Rover Defender (90/110/130) So we thought we would add some key info to help everyone!
A few pointers to note:
Defender 110″ rear brakes are the same as 130″ rear brakes- including the discs and calipers
Discovery 1 rear brakes are the same as Defender 90 Rear brakes- including the discs and calipers
If your vehicle is a 90″ with a low spec, it may have solid front discs instead of vented (Easily checked by looking at the outer edge of the disc and noting vents centrally)
Solid front discs as above, and vented front discs run different calipers
If your vehicle has solid fronts, and you plan on changing the calipers- its worth converting it to Vented calipers and a Vented brake kit
Solid disc front calipers (SEB500440 / SEB500450) are more expensive than vented! (SEB500460/ SEB500470)
When changing the brakes on a Defender, you will have to remove the wheel hub from the stub axle, therefore it is advisable to change the wheel bearings at the same time, as a matter of course.
Changes in rear 110 / 130 brakes (circa 2000 model year)
On the Defender 110/130 the brake discs and calipers vary in offset depending on year (from chassis number WA159806) This can be hard to determine and complicated to ensure you have the right discs. Therefore in our opinion, it is worth upgrading your earlier axle to “late spec.” By using late Defender 110 Discs, Pads and calipers, you can eliminate any error. The change in Land Rover part number from FTC3846 to SDB000330 is down to the off-set of the disc, and matches in the offset of the Caliper. Hence by using a SDB000330 Late brake kit + SMC500260/270 calipers, it brings everything up to date and matching.
Defender 90 Solid Front brake discs
As mentioned above- early Defender 90’s and low spec non ABS 90″ defenders came with solid front discs rather than vented. When the time comes to change the brakes and calipers on these vehicles, it makes sense to upgrade! Why? Because the solid front calipers are circa £20 more expensive than vented front calipers. Thats why we have not listed AP brand solid fronts! If you wish you upgrade your brake kit, you will simply need to order the following, which bolts on without modification: A Vented front brake kit & Vented front calipers
Defender 90 Rear brake upgrade
On the Defender 90, the rear brakes run a slightly smaller discs and smaller calipers with small bore pistons. Here at LOF we offer a “Defender 90 Rear brake upgrade” Which offers the chance to convert from 90″ rear discs and pads, to late model Defender 110 brakes. This makes a marginal increase in performance and also helps with Defender 90’s used for heavy towing. The cost compared to using a 90″ rear set up is minimal hence why it is a good option!
If you would like any more help or advice regarding brakes, feel free to get in touch @ Sales@LOFclutches.com
Here at LOF clutches, we offer a variety of different clutch kits to suit all forms of Rover V8 applications!
The Rover V8 fitted to Land Rovers typically uses a 10.5” clutch kit (267mm) This engine can be mounted with various gearboxes depending on application. These include the R380, LT77, LT95 and LT85 Land Rover gearboxes. The 10.5” clutch kit used in these applications is relatively universal. However you will need to know if your vehicle is a 4 speed or 5 speed gearbox. All Land Rover 4 speed gearboxes like the LT95 use a 10 spline input shaft and therefore require a 10 or ‘corse’ spline drive plate. All 5 speed gearboxes like the R380 use a 23 spline ‘Fine’ input shaft and therefore need a 23 spline drive plate. Here at LOF we offer both our ROADspec and POWERspec V8 kits with an option to choose a spline count.
Below is a rough illustration of which one you will need.
101 Forward control- LT95 4 speed > 10 spline clutch kit
Range Rover (1970-1983) – LT95 4 speed > 10 spline clutch kit
Stage 1 V8 S3- LT95 > 10 spline clutch kit
RR classic, Discovery, Defender V8 – R380/LT77 > 23 spline clutch kit
Our 10.5″ clutch kits have proven ultra reliable and strong over the years, we therefore discontinued any form of “paddle” clutch for the RV8 as we deemed it unnecessary. The LOF POWERspec V8 kit in 10.5″ for example is good for over 640Nm and therefore exceeds nearly all torque/power applications in the Rover V8!
More recently, LOF clutches has been asked to supply clutch kits for road cars such as the Morgan, TVR, Triumph TR8 and MGB V8, and kit cars incorporating the Rover V8.
We have developed a series of kits for all manor of these road going applications. Most Road cars using the RV8 run a flywheel drilled for a 9.5” clutch kit. Again you will need to check the input spline and release bearing set up of your vehicle but we can certainly help!
Our most common kit for the road going cars is our LOF POWERspec 2.8 TGV kit. This kit is a 9.5” (242mm) clutch kit, with a 23 spline drive plate. This kit is deemed suitable for the Rover V8 up to circa 500Nm which seems to cover all applications in road cars! We can also offer a slightly weaker kit for mildly tuned engines.
As the Rover V8 Road cars vary so much in terms of release bearing mechanisms etc, we suggest sending us an email to confirm the parts you need!
In this post we have a few pointers to help everyone when changing the clutch on TD5 Defender/ TD5 Discovery!
First things first- All Defenders and Discovery 2 vehicles fitted with the TD5 engine run the same clutch set up, Inside the bell housing everything is identical between these models, including the slave cylinder (FTC5202)
As standard, TD5 vehicles came fitted with a Valeo Dual mass flywheel (PSD103470) and Valeo Clutch kit. It is worth noting that the dual mass flywheel wears out around 100,000 miles or so, depending on driving style. When looking to change the clutch on the TD5, you should always budget for a new flywheel as a matter of course. Always check your service history to see if it has ever been changed before. One thing we say to customers if ‘DIY’ swapping the clutch and if not sure, is get the vehicle stripped and send us a video of the flywheel before ordering!
In terms of buying a new flywheel- you have 2 options; Option 1 is to change the flywheel for another dual mass flywheel + DMF clutch kit. This is the most expensive option. Option 2 is to convert to the LOF Solid mass kit, which works out around £100 cheaper and is the route chosen by 90-99% of our customers + Garages we supply. (See our SMF Vs DMF post here)
What else should I change when fitting a TD5 Clutch?
1. The Pushrod (FTC5199) is always worth changing, this fits between the slave cylinder and the clutch fork, it tends to wear down on the ball end and reduces the throw on the clutch assembly. Cost wise these are circa £6 so its a no brainer!
2. Clutch fork- the clutch fork/ lever on the TD5 is the heavy cast iron lump (576137) on the whole it is pretty reliable. If ordering from over seas, or having the clutch changed by a busy garage, its worth taking one just in case. Otherwise it can usually be re-used. In the back of the fork is a bush (571161) on which the fork pivots, we supply a new one in all the Td5 clutch kits, its worth changing! The other thing to look out for if re-using your old fork, is at the pushrod end, there is a steel ‘land’ on which the pushrod sits, sometimes these crack and break up- if this has happened to yours, replace the fork- usually only 1 in 100 have this happen.
3. The Td5 Crank seal (LUF100420) is worth changing if you have a high mileage engine, but as is life, its always a catch 22! In order to correctly changing the TD5 crank seal, you need to drop the sump down, mount the crank seal and then re-fit the sump. Our words of wisdom here are- if its not leaking and you do not feel confident in getting it right, leave it well alone! However if yours is leaking, or you think it could be, take one and give it a go!
4. The Spigot bush (LFB500050) comes in all LOF clutch kits for the TD5, This is the bit that makes the common Td5 noise “VRRMM” on a damp cold morning when depressing the clutch! Please note, it is common for the TD5 spigot bush to wear/ oval the crank. Check the bush is not a loose fit before fitting. We recommend the following procedure: Brake cleaner the outside of the bush and crank, add some loctite and drift the bush home. Then using 1 finger apply some grease to the inside of the spigot. People used to say drop the bush in oil, but we think this is totally pointless as by doing so you lubricate the outside of the bush as much as the inside! (Aim of the game is to stop the spigot from picking up and spinning in the crank)
5. Flywheel bolts- on the dual mass flywheel you can change the stretch bolts that mount it to the crank (ERR6581 *8x) On the LOF solid mass flywheel kits these come with new bolts which are shorted and are re-usable.
Other things to consider:
Flywheel locking tool- the torque for the TD5 flywheel bolts is 40 Newton Metres + 90 degree turn. Our flywheel locking tool helps to hold the flywheel still while doing the final torque.
Clutch alignment tool- if you do not have one already, these are a must have for the tool box
Defender owners will want a POWERspring too to make the pedal nice and light, complementing a new clutch kit
New hydraulics- you may want to consider a new slave (FTC5202) and on Defenders a new master STC500100 while swapping the clutch.
LOF clutches is offering 3 race car owners the opportunity to receive LOF sponsorship in 2022
We are looking for 3 Race car / competition truck owners to send our all new LOF Heavy duty 4×4 clutch kits to for their trucks in 2022. We are asking for anyone running a truck within our range of products to get in touch, simply email some details about you, your truck, races you are entering and the specification to Sales@LOFclutches.com
The ideal trucks would be based on or have the drive train from a Suzuki Jimny / Ford Ranger / Nissan Patrol / Isuzu / Daihatsu / Nissan or Mitsubishi. (or possibly others where we can accommodate)
Some competitions / rally / race scenarios we would like to see our products showcased at include:
Launched now for spring 2022, POWERspec performance brake kits for Discovery 3+4
We thought it was time we completed our range, after many requests by Discovery 3 and Discovery 4 owners for POWERspec Brake kits, we finally managed to finish them. These kits include everything required to do a brake disc and pad change on a Discovery.
Discs: The well recognised POWERspec brake discs, Dimpled and grooved, vented and blackened for best performance
Brake Pads: LOF POWERspec brake pads, with our high coefficient friction material and anti rattle backing surface.
The all new LOF 4×4 clutch range was created using the same core values that made LOF Clutches a success in the Land Rover industry. We strive to provide the best product possible, upgraded where needed, and supplied in one convenient box, ensuring you have everything required to do the job!
A Heavy duty LOF clutch cover, choose between 20% ROADspec and 40% POWERspec, increased clamp load
LOF HD drive plate, lined with a woven oragnic friction material, containing higher levels of copper and brass, less fibreglass! For maximum heat and wear resistance
1x Release bearing or concentric slave cylinder to suit your application, either an OE unit or upgraded depending on model
1x Spigot bush or pilot bearing to suit the clutch kit application
1x Clutch alignment tool, specific to the vehicle/ clutch ordred
6/8/9x high tensile clutch cover bolts
1x Sachet of high temprature spline/ assembly grease for pivots/splines and moving parts
LOF fitting instructions
We hope this helps to show what our 4×4 clutch kits offer, if you need any help or advice feel free to send us an email!
Our advice on Changing the clutch on a 200tdi or 300tdi
The 200tdi and 300tdi both in the Discovery 1, Defender 90/110/130 and the Range Rover classic, all run the same 9.5″ Diameter clutch, the same kit is used in the 2.5NA, 2.5TD and the 2.5 Petrol engine.
Choosing the right clutch: If you are abusing the truck off road, hauling heavy loads daily, have a VNT/ hybrid turbo fitted, are competing in winch challenge/ safari/ trialing, you will need the 2.8TGV POWERspec kit. If your truck is a daily driver, daily work horse or weekend toy, you should look to either the ROADspec TDI or POWERspec TDI kits!
Things worth changing while fitting a new TDI clutch: 1. The clutch fork: as many will know, the 4 cylinder Land Rover engines use a ‘pressed’ steel type fork made from maybe 2mm thick mild steel, This fork pivots directly on a central pivot which is also made of steel, over time the fork wears and the clutch fork pivot punches through the fork! Symptoms of this will usually be a rock hard clutch pedal, where the slave has extended to its maximum, or an over extended slave which leaks fluid into the bell housing and out of the breather hole onto the ground! The fork, Part number FTC2957, can be upgraded to FTC2957HD which has a steel ‘strap’ or plate welded over the front of the fork, in essence giving it more material before it punches through. Another option is the Xcess 4×4 Fork which is domex steel welded over the entire front face, giving extra strength! Either way its worth changing, take your time to use some of the grease we supply in the kit to lube up the pivot ball, slipper pads and Pushrod seat/land.
2. The Rear main oil seal/ crank seal: The 200tdi runs a circular seal part number ERR2532, here at LOF we sell the genuine OEM ones that are green in colour, these can be very tricky to get right, be careful to follow the workshop manual, and if possible find the original LR workshop tool to drift the new seal into place. On the 300tdi, the crank seal part number LUF100430, is also worth changing. Again this seal can be tricky to get right, it uses a series of small M5/M6 bolts, and a gasket. Be careful to follow the workshop manual, also use a torch to run round the edge of the seal once fitted to make sure it has not been inverted, caught or damaged.
Do you need to change the flywheel on the 200tdi/300tdi: In short, no you will not necessarily, they are a solid flywheel from standard on the 4 cylinder LR engines, they are resistant to warping usually, but it is worth running a straight edge or steel rule over the face to make sure its flat. In addition, make sure the 3 dowels are not damaged, and the face of the flywheel is not too badly scorn or uneven. If needed and you have the facilities, you can machine the flywheel, and replace the dowels for new ones.
Things to be careful of when fitting a TDI clutch kit:
Be careful to use a clutch alignment tool, making sure the clutch plate spline is directly inline with the axis of the crank and spigot bush. If you are not careful and these are milaligned, the gearbox will be a struggle to re-install, sometimes it may also cause damage to the clutch plate. Make sure the gearbox is supported at all times when re-installing, also make sure the input spline of the gearbox is not ‘hung’ off of the clutch plate, this can crack the back of the plate and cause no drive.
Read the workshop manual when fitting a new crank seal!
Clutch cover bolts- as standard these were M8x20 from the factory, and used spring washers. We found some flywheels were not threaded all the way and ended up bottoming out before the clutch cover was tight to the flywheel. Therefore we supply our TDI kits with 6 bolts M8x16, 16mm long, this avoids this problem. You do not need to use spring washers on our bolts/clutches, if you wish you can add some loctite, but it is not essential. just torque them up to 28Nm and all will be well.
If you have an early 90/110 which originally had a 2.5NA engine fitted, or a “Stump” R380, you should be careful to make sure the release bearing supplied (FTC5200) is the same as the one you remove in terms of length. Some of the early 2.5Na vehicles ran a stumpy release bearing part number UTJ100210 which is 10mm shorter in length. If you fit the later more common FTC5200 bearing by accident, it may cause the clutch to slip!
The 2.4L and 2.2L TD4/ TDCI Puma is in our opinion one of the easiest models of Defender to change the clutch on, we have written this info page to help everyone out if they are planning on changing their clutch!
What parts should I change on my TD4 Defender?: One of the most common questions we get asked about the TDCI is ‘Do I need a new flywheel?’ – The short answer is no, when Land Rover decided to install the 2.4L Ford TDCI in 2006/2007 Ford were having great issues with their dual mass flywheels, Land Rover decided to not run the risk and consequently every TDCI that left the factory was fitted with a solid mass flywheel (SMF.) Even Ford got rid of the dual mass flywheel on their 2.2L engines! The only reason we offer a flywheel for the TDCI is if the original AP clutch has exploded, when this happens and the terrible tambourine rattly’ clutch plate looses a spring, it falls out and can damage the flywheel. Of course the other reason is if the flywheel has seen excess slipping of the clutch, but you should be able to know the answer to these 2 factors before taking the gearbox out.
On the TDCI, it runs a Ford Concentric slave cylinder (essentially a release bearing and slave cylinder in 1 unit) Great idea… until they fail and you have to take the gearbox out to replace it- GRRR! Here at LOF, we upgrade everyone to the 2.2 Design of slave cylinder, it is a better design than the 2.4L version. Originally we supplied the genuine Ford/ FTE brand, but we soon found a failing with this part, so we have made our own now. (without boring you the design of the hydraulic piston gave way to cracking of the nylon causing premature failure. Worth mentioning, if you have a 2.4 Tdci, you will need a new bleed pipe, part number LR068981, we suggest changing this every time you do a clutch swap anyway as its held in place with an R clip and cannot be removed without taking the gearbox out again. We supply this part in our Bundle kits and also on its own.
Things we suggest changing (mostly included in our bundle deals for ease)
The Rear main oil seal/ Crank seal. LR020610, unless your engine is on low miles, it makes sense to do this- please note fitting is crucial to success, follow the Ford workshop manual not LR.
The concentric save cylinder- This is included in all of our kits anyway, but it needs changing every time – **Do not get this out of the box and compress by hand, you will damage the seal**
Bleed pipe LR068981/82- We suggest changing these every time, as they are in the engine bay and the Plastic can go brittle over time.
Spigot bearing/ Pilot bearing- these are pre-loaded with grease, and after 80-100k miles can dry up and self destruct (one of the reasons some TDCI can have gear selection issues)
The master cyinder, STC500100- this needs changing when doing a TDCI clutch, as you will find the old fluid is mostly black sludge from degraded seals, if you do not change this, the black gunk will work its way down to the new slave cylinder and could cause premature failure! (the master cylinder is the only part not included in the TDCI bundle)
Not something to change, but something to have in the tool box- a clutch alignment tool is critical, as mentioned below, if the clutch plate is not aligned with the crank/ spigot bearing, you can do some real damage to the clutch plate when re-installing the gearbox, hence its worth having a proper alignment tool and not doing it by eye!
The Process:
1.You should start from inside the cab, removing the rubber gearstick gaiter and sliding the main gearstick off by splaying the 2 plastic retaining clips. Next you will need to take a male Torx bit, and undo the 8 retaining bolts that hold the lower gearstick + High low selector stick in place, stick the 8x bolts in the cubby box to keep them safe! You can then remove the lower half of the gearstick and the high low selector, that is all from inside!
2. Next You will need to pop the bonnet, and undo the 4 bolts holding the down pipe to the exhaust manifold (2.4) or the 13mm Exhaust clamp on the 2.2 TDCI. You can at this point also take the bonnet off if desired to let more light into the engine bay.
3. The next job is to remove the prop shafts using a 9/16″ socket and spanner (prop shaft tools are great and well worth the peanuts they cost!) Once the prop shafts are removed, you will want to take a large philips screw driver and remove the hand brake drum retaining screw, followed by removing the handbrake drum itself (make sure handbrake lever is off else you will never get it off!). Next you will want to remove the centre/ mid-box exhaust section, which in turn will allow you to remove the front section (if you have anti roll bars you may need to drop these down too to slide the CAT/ DPF past)
4. Next you will want to disconnect all electronic wiring to the gearbox, this includes: High low sensor, Diff lock sensor, large M10 earth strap, Reverse switch sensor, speedo drive wiring and crank sensor wire.
5. Now you can remove the gearbox mounting bolts either side of the chassis, making sure the gearbox/ transfer box is supported. You can of course separate the LT230 transfer box from the MT82 gearbox if working alone or servicing the MT82 output shaft. The LT230 ways in the region of 40-50KG so is just about manageable by 1 person. The same applies to the gearbox.
6. Once the gearbox mounts are removed, you can then begin removing the ring of 13mm bell housing bolts holding the gearbox to the engine. You may want to leave the lower 6 o’clock position ones until last. You can reach the higher 12 o’clock position ones using a couple of 12″ extensions and a ratchet.
7. Once all bolts are removed, you can begin to wiggle the gearbox backwards and separate the pair- be careful as the gearbox is dowelled to the engine, it may be stiff and then drop suddenly!
8. Once the gearbox is down on the ground, it is straight forward to change the clutch in situ,
9. Re-fitment is the reverse of the above, take Extra care not to damage the clutch plate or spigot bearing when installing the gearbox (Keep it supported at all times, and keep it in-line with the axis of the crank, failure to do so may end up in damage to the clutch plate (we see this a lot on driveway fitting jobs) or damage to the roller bearing spigot!
If you need any more help or info feel free to get in touch! Sales@LOFclutches.com, we can usually reply to emails faster than an answer on the phone!
Emeline at Off-Track Family in Switzerland installed an LOF POWERspec TDCI clutch kit and EXTREMEspec MT82 output shaft to her Defender 110 last year, in this video she gives us some awesome feedback!
Finally the time has arrived for us to launch our long awaited 4×4 Clutch range!
We have started off with 24 clutch kits, varying across 10 different 4×4 vehicle manufacturers! We have introduced two Spec’s of clutch similar to our famous Land Rover product range. Firstly we will be offering a ROADspec model which will suit most road going trucks with standard to medium tuning, designed with a 20% upgraded performance. In addition we have our POWERspec range which is designed for the real work horses, designed with 40% greater performance, these are aimed at tuned, modified, towing and working trucks!
All of the new 4×4 LOF Clutches come with the same great features that made us number 1 in the Land Rover industry:
Heavy Duty Woven organic friction material
High quality sprung drive plates with adequate dampening for daily use
Heavy duty clutch covers with suitable clamp loads, built with strength by design
Each kit comes complete with everything required to do the job in one
Release bearings included with all kits
Spigot bearings, Alignment tools, Clutch cover bolts and Spline Grease
2 Year LOF Guarantee
Ford Ranger | Isuzu Dmax | Nissan Navara | Toyota Hilux | Suzuki Jimny | Mitsubishi | Daihatsu
fetching £125,000 at the @goodwoodrevival festival last year!
